KLR's

I see a big bore in the future for Nelle. I am seeing a bit of puff puff since last fall, nothing really serious or that will hold me up this summer, but if she is puffing I plan on doing no less than the 685 bore.
I wrench all day on Outdoor Power, ATV/ROV/SbS, ZTR's construction equipment etc. Really don't have the desire or the setup and space to do this myself and much rather have it done out of my sight so I can scrutinize later 
Looking for any insight on Mechs or shops that could do this within 100 miles or so of Emporia. Pretty much just needs to disassemble,  send out and re-assemble.
Also any insights on who offers the best work and kits. I found this, http://www.mtechmotorcycles.com/performance-projects-kawasaki-klr-685-705-kits.htm and as I know of them and people in Bend, I would trust them.

TIA

I had to go back to stock links to stop the bottoming on my KLR, but I'm pretty big - 6ft, 215lbs. I have no trouble with the height on my KLR because I'm tall enough to deal with it.

To my understanding, the issue is geometry: with shorter links, it's easier to compress the shock due to the angles. To really fix the problem, you need longer links and a shorter aftermarket shock.

However, prepare for sticker shock!!! They are $$$$$$$

As for color... I really am partial to Kawasaki green.

For those who may be wondering, these are the part numbers for the green plastics (thanks to bikebandit.com microfish!)

55028A - Cowl
35004A - Front Fender
35023A - Rear Fender
36001B - left sidecover, note model year specific '01-'04
36001E - right side cover, note model year specific '01-'04
49089A - left side radiator cover
49089C - right side resevoir cover

Total for all new plastics from bikebandit as of this post... $708.98! Yikes!

Good info Nick and thx. Sticker shock indeed heh, I am but a poor working stiff and have some other ideas. I hope to find a local shop that can make me some cheap dog bones and try different lengths for now especially since the info in my latest post.

I believe the lowering links change the suspension dynamics enough to cause excessive bottoming? At least on some bikes they do, not sure about the KLR however....

I had major problems bottoming my KLR650 out when I bought it, she had lowering links. My solution was to re-install stock links, and it fixed the problem quite well.... but I'm tall enough that the height is not a problem. I understand that for some folks, that is not a reasonable solution

This winter I also put progressive front springs in, but haven't ridden hard enough yet to get a good feel for them. Went through the OHV at John Redmond and didn't bottom out, but it's mostly smooth.

Good info Nick and thx. Sticker shock indeed heh, I am but a poor working stiff and have some other ideas. I hope to find a local shop that can make me some cheap dog bones and try different lengths for now especially since the info in my latest post.

Me too, that's why my KLR looks the way it does! 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Gun-Rear-Spring-Kawasaki-KLR650-1987-2015-8-0-kg-Yellow-Dual-Sport-ADV/282314446016

That's actually affordable!

From the auction listing:

The stock KLR650 shock spring is too light and not designed to carry luggage. The Top Gun Rear shock springs are heavier and allow for added weight from a passenger or luggage and are made with the highest quality materials for accuracy and consistency. A properly sized (weighted) spring can put you at the correct ride height for adequate suspension travel. Refer to the weight chart to find the correct spring weight for you and your riding.
Replaces the stock light shock spring so the KLR can support heavier loads (luggage for example).
Made with the highest quality materials for accuracy and consistency.
3 spring rates available to better suite each rider refer to the weight chart when deciding what spring is best for you.
Made in the USA
Top Gun Spring Chart (img attached)

I see a big bore in the future for Nelle.

I rebuilt my '03 KLR two winters ago, let me know if you have any questions. I bought almost everything from Eagle Mike and he provided valuable advice any time I had a question.

I spent about $1500 when it was all said and done, but I had to buy almost every tool, plus a workbench. Harbor Freight is your friend.

I really feel like anybody can do the rebuild too, I had no significant mechanical experience, other than building a lawn mower engine in middle school technology class. The hardest part of the entire process was just finding time to get in to the garage and work on it.

Quote from: asis on April 09, 2017, 12:49:50 PM

I see a big bore in the future for Nelle.

The hardest part of the entire process was just finding time to get in to the garage and work on it.

I have no doubt I could do it but since I do it daily for a living, and while I do enjoy my job, when the whistle blows it is about the last thing I want to do. I likely have most of the tools I would need but have them at work and any other special tooling that might be needed...
Who and where is Eagle Mike?

A perfect example of my mechanical lethargic home nature: I just tripped over my oil change kit I got over a month ago 

Ha ha!


Eagle Mike makes lots of goodies for KLR's.  Google is your friend.

I have no doubt I could do it but since I do it daily for a living, and while I do enjoy my job, when the whistle blows it is about the last thing I want to do. I likely have most of the tools I would need but have them at work and any other special tooling that might be needed...
Who and where is Eagle Mike?

I know what you mean. it can be really hard to get in to projects at home that are directly in your professional field.

Eagle Mike sells all the parts you'd need, and offers head refurbishing. http://www.eaglemike.com/

Man, I had no idea OEM plastic for KLRs was so expensive!!